Hawaiian chain restaurants help cure students’ homesickness

Hawaiian restaurants, like Hawaiian Bros and L&L Hawaiian Barbecue are opening more locations in Waco. Katy Mae Turner | Photographer

By Mariah Bennett | Staff Writer

Hawaiian cuisine made its way to Waco this year with the debut of Hawaiian Bros in May and the grand reopening of L&L Hawaiian Barbecue in September.

While all people who live in Hawaii are locals, only those who are of Hawaiian descent are considered native Hawaiians. Honolulu senior and Hawai’i Club external president Brianna Tancinco said via email that there are differences between local and traditional Hawaiian foods as well.

“Traditional Hawaiian food consists of things that have been enjoyed for years and years [and] were carefully harvested, prepared and ultimately sustained by the native Hawaiian population,” Tancinco said.

Mililani, Hawaii, senior and Hawai’i Club internal president Aaliyah Iwamoto said there are multiple L&L Hawaiian establishments back home, but they serve more local Hawaiian food than traditional Hawaiian food.

“Actual Hawaiian foods [are] different from local foods … from the islands,” Iwamoto said. “Hawaii is kind of a melting pot of cultures, mostly Asian cultures.”

According to Tancinco, local foods are often a combination of many cultures and backgrounds of Hawaiian residents, which come together to create something unique.

“These things aren’t necessarily traditional, but they definitely are foods we’ve grown up enjoying back home in Hawaii,” Tancinco said. “[It also] helps cure some of that homesickness a lot of us can experience when we’re away.”

Iwamoto also said it is really cool to see two major chains bring Hawaiian culture to the Waco community.

“When I first got here, I was so surprised that there was an L&L in Dallas my freshman year,” Iwamoto said. “We drove all the way to Dallas … because we were missing our local foods. I’m glad that they’re in Waco.”

Honolulu senior and Hawai’i Club historian Justin-Aeron Bali said via email that while there are representations of Hawaiian food in Waco, they are mostly “fast food-esque.” He said despite them not being traditional, they are still savory.

“I really enjoy [the] two Hawaiian places here,” Bali said. “Two specific dishes that I enjoy include the Molokai from Hawaiian Bros and the chicken katsu curry from L&L Hawaiian Barbecue.”

Tancinco said L&L Hawaiian is her go-to local Hawaiian establishment and can bring her a taste of home.

“Even places like J-Petal, where we can get poke bowls, is really nice and comforting to have, because it might not be as satisfying as the poke bowls at home, but that’s totally understandable,” Tancinco said. “And sometimes, it’s just nice to have those options nearby.”

Tancinco said the arrival of places like L&L Hawaiian and Hawaiian Bros brings her hope.

“I think Hawaiian food representation at all … in Waco is important because it reflects the growing population of people from Hawaii who are coming to Waco as students, but also those who have moved to Texas in general for other reasons,” Tancinco said.